Lima to Huancayo y Concepción

For anyone that hasn't traveled in Peru before the Central Highway out of Lima could be described as a baptism of fire and hopefully not too violent of a crash course in what is possible.

Within 134 kilometers of leaving our sea level Lima apartment we had climbed to 4,818 metres (15,807 feet) above sea level, which took just over 2 hours on excellent (obviously winding) roads as we followed the route of the Lima to Huancayo railway (built in the 19th century) with its incredible scenery, bridges, gorges and long long drops to the river below.

Preparation for the trip - full tank of fuel, 3 maps, in flight nibbles and 2 x oxygen in a can to avoid headaches, nausea and crabbiness, one of which was tested at full height but had no discernible effect whatsoever, but neither of us were particularly crabby so maybe it did help...

We then dropped down the other side across the rich green puna and arrived in Jauja not far from Lake Paca where we had lunch.

It rained solidly as we munched on delicious lake trout, so no boat trip this time, so we continued to our first nights destination - Huancayo at 3,240 metres.

Not a great deal to report about Huancayo other than that despite it being only 5 hours from Lima you are very much in the highlands, a completely different environment in every way. The people, landscape, buildings, food, air everything is different - much more to follow...

Next morning we made our way back along the Lima road to Concepción, the silver market and Santa Rosa de Ocopa. We stopped to ask directions (the traditional version of google maps) and the lady we spoke to insisted on showing us where to go, so she, her friend, many skirts and an inquisitive nature jumped into the car - our first of many encounters with the super friendly highlanders. 

Santa Rosa de Ocopa is a Franciscan convent (still a little confused as to why its a convent when there have only ever been monk inhabitants) founded in 1723. Today only 7 monks remain but the history of the place is fascinating. Since its conception monks have been educated here and set off as missionaries to proselytize in the Amazon, 86 of whom were killed, or so the plaque describes.

Top tip - visit this place in the morning if you can. We arrived quite accidentally at exactly the right time at 11.30, which turned out to be just before the tour office (one older lady clearly in need of some food and our tour guide) went for lunch. This meant that we were the only two punters in the building and we were whisked from room to room and explanation to explanation with exactly the right amount of haste and information.

Rosa, our guide was fabulous. The tour includes a museum stuffed with jungle animals, lots of old religious clothes, paintings from the Cusco school and many a representation of missionaries being hung drawn and quartered by slightly off message natives.

But the highlights for us were the library and refectory. The library contains upwards of 30,000 volumes from the 15th century onwards. Rosa described it as the best library in South America, no small claim, there is no doubt that it is hugely important - and the oldest book in there was published in 1497, St Augustine's reflections on the bible.

Due to the value of the contents, a 2002 armed robbery!! - the convent used to have a 1454 catechism in Aymara, Quechua and Spanish but it was stolen along with a painting from the Flemish school - and good practice, photos are strictly forbidden in both the library and refectory.

As we entered the library Rosa whispered to me to pass her my camera, she then snapped and tour guided away, whispering all the time...:)

The refectory was painted with the most amazing mural in 2010 by a local artist. The pictory describes the missionaries journey into the jungle, with all the imagery and colour that they would have encountered. It is breathtaking. Once again Rosa whispered her command, the camera was handed over and the illicit snaps taken.

With Rosa's generosity of spirit and the surprises of the convent still very much with us we set off for the next major leg of the trip to Ayacucho...an adventure all of its own...